Manual For 50 Evinrude Spl
Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work Gas assisted tilt mechanism? If so, your cable is probably frozen or broken. Do you know where this cable is?
If so, check it to see if the housing of the cable has been compromised. Salt water usage accelerates this damage. Usually breaks the cable. Mine got pinched big time because it was not routed just right.
The engine would come down on it pinching it. Over time the plastic housing frayed allowing salt water in the cable.
That froze it up. Replaced the cable for about $62. Not to bad of a job for a DIY. Let us know if this helps. PS Of course its possible the cable is just in need of adjustment.
I assume it was working properly at some point. Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work Thanks, Will fish for food. My cable seems to be in good shape. Just bought the boat so don't know if it ever worked. I can see the lever pull on the cable, so you might be correct about adjustment. It is gas assist. Do you pry the cable end off the ball it is on and then turn it.
Johnson outboard 48 hp forum topics whats the difference in a 48 spl and a 50 hp johnson 3 1990 48 hp johnson outboard motor 1 evinrude 48 spl service manual.
I tried to pry it off but didn't want to push too hard until I figured out if that is the correct way. Any additional information on adjustment would be appreciated. I purchased a manual but I can find anything on it.
Lots about power trim. Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work Ya gotta love those manuals. The connector you speak of is called for some reason a 'shell connector'. It snaps on over the ball. Very tight fit. It has one side that is flatter than the other.
This is the side that I snap on over the ball. I usually just press in on with much painful pressure from an index finger. You will have to use enough pressure til the point you fear it might break. Then it snaps on or off depending on which way you go. With your lever in the down position or tilt. (I think) do you get any downward movement at all? (assuming it is in the up position) If unit appears frozen and cable 'wiggles' some as you rotate lever.
It might be the adjustment out of whack. Fairly easy fix, rather awkward to explain. To test the gas assisted 'non-repairable' (approx $400) cylinder, remove the black plastic nut at the bottom of the cable. By remove I mean unscrew it and lift it up the cable out of the way. You will now see where the cable actually hooks into the Stainless steel reservoir.
Being careful not to put your hand or hands anywhere they might get pinched from sudden dropping of engine. Pry upward on the top edge of the reservoir. Don't mess up the threads.
Use a flat bladed screwdriver fairly thin. Insert it just above the threads and you will see the assembly tilt slightly upward causing the pressure (if tilted enough) to release and allow the engine to begin to drop.
Slowly if you tilt small amount. Faster if you pry/tilt more. (Don't allow it to drop much as it will impede your view and access to the upper shell connector which you will have to remove.) If this works, you have a good cylinder that isn't frozen. This is good news.
Now you can attempt the adjustment. Pry on the assembly again and with a friend to help lift the engine to max up position and then release the assembly. It should now stay put all the way up. Pry the connector off the ball. Use a flat blade of some sort. If this cable is old.it may be brittle and break.
(just the clam shell which screws onto the cable) Don't worry, you haven't ruined the cable. You will have to order a shell connector. They are common and are used for the engine throttle cables ect. Pick up one at the dealer just in case if you have the opportunity. If you successfully removed it and pulled it free, now think about the direction of the lever and the motion you know understand is needed to pull that assembly upward to release the pressure. Thread the shell connector on the cable further or less to check the amount of release you get. Once you reassemble it, route it carefully out of the way and attempt to lower the engine.
If it is slow. It will be difficult to raise. It needs more adjustment.
The relationship of the 'drop and the difficulty or ease of raising the engine is inversely related. Faster down, means less lifting on the engine to raise it.
Believe me it gets old, if its too slow and heavy. Don't settle for slow and heavy. Keep adjusting. I hope all this isn't confusing.
Its clear to me because I have done it several times. Ask me to clarify anything you don't quite understand. Remember, there is no adjustment where the lower end of the cable is 'hooked' into the reservoir assembly. Just tighten down the black plastic nut. It should have an o ring in there to keep water out. I alway lube this area profusely with Corrosion Blocker when in salt water.
Enough for now. Let me know if its clear as mud and we can go from there.
Power trim and tilt is much more appreciated by guys without it.right? Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work Hey Gil009 - I had the same problem with a '90 Johnson 40hp. I found that the cable was damaged & replaced it. I now am able to lift & lower the engine. However, there doesn't seem to be any assist from the cylinder - it's a real bear to raise it (thank god for my fishing partner, my 16 yr old son). I removed the bolt that connects the bottom of the cylinder & used a screwdriver to pry as you explained. When I do I can move the rod up & down, but with effort.
Does this mean the cylinder isn't frozen, but still defective? Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work I'm not quite clear on your description. There is no bolt removal involved. You can't adjust or repair the actual gas cylinder itself.
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It is a replace only item. If you replaced the cable and its still a bear to lift, then the cable probably needs adjusting and the gas assist cylinder is actually working against you. When you say bolt, do you mean the black plastic nut?
The rod you mention is where the lower cable hooks into the reservoir, right? It should take some effort to tilt the rod/mechanism and you should be able to lift the engine at that point if you have tilted or lifted the base enough.
If you tilt it enough the engine will almost float up or slide down fairly quickly. Then cylinder is good if this happens. Try it again with help and prove this out. Then adjust the upper cable end as described above. I lived with the same scenario you described for several months, because I was too busy fishing to bother. But when I did get around to it.
Wow what a difference. Night and day. Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work Gil009- The bolt I'm referring to is the one going through the bottom of the cylinder. I had to remove it in order to get access to the top end of the cable, since I couldn't lift the engine to get at it. At first, I wasn't able to lift the engine at all. I found the cable was kinked in the middle, the plastic coating was torn open, and the metal cable inside was frayed.
My guess was it was stretching when I tried to use it. I replaced the cable, and I'm now able to lift and lower the engine. It's just very difficult to lift it. I don't seem to be getting any assist from the cylinder. My manual said the shell connector should get 14 turns.
If I understand you, you think an extra turn or two will help? I'm like you - I've been living with it the way it is because at least it works.
My boating season is nearing the end up here (my boat is in the Northwoods of far northern Wisconsin, we had frost 2 weeks ago), but I'll try tightening the connector a couple of turns next time I'm up there. Oh, and Gloomis16, you can order the parts from any Johnson/Evinrude dealer. I got the cable from a local dealer (around $70, the shell connector around $5), but I've found places online too, if you don't have someone in your neighborhood. If you can't find anywhere, let me know & I can pass along some names. Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work Mykrp, sorry I'm so late getting back to this post, but got sidetracked with Francis.
You should have been able to get to the lower cable connection area to pry up on the valve to help get the engine up without removing the bolt. I am making an assumption here that your engine is similar to my 95 48 SPL. That is unless it was all the way down.
Manual For 50 Hp Mercury Outboard
Which it probably was now that I reread your post. Anyway, definately add some more turns one way or the other till you get 'magic'. You will know when you have the spot. Make sure that your cylinder is working first. See above post. Make it manually walk the dog so to speak. Up, down, like silk.
One on the lower valve, (you) and one to assist the motor down slowly so it doesn't fall on you the valve person. Also have the assistant raise the engine. Should be very easy with the valve tilted. If this works, then you are just a turn or so away from the right spot. Let me know how it goes.
Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work Have been following this thread with great interest because I often wonder if my tilt/trim is good or low on pressure. First, a quick note from the service manual that cautions agains accidently unscrewing the valve body from the unit when removing the cable because of the high pressure inside. (boom???) Now onto my issue: If the motor is half way up, and the lever is moved to TILT, will it drift down by itself?
When lifting the motor, is there resistance if you pull hard? Mine will generally stay in what ever position it is set in whith the lever in the TILT position, but sometimes will slowly drop down.
Does that sound like proper operation? I sort of expect more lift from the assembly. Thanks, Mark.
Re: Evinrude 50 HP manual tilt doesn't work 'I took the cable loose from the top as you said, It was hard to pry off but it did come off. I was able to slide the cable in and out but it didn't allow me to lift the motor even with a lot of effort. I pull it out as far as it would go and no luck. My motor is in the down position do I am not sure how to check the cylinder.' EvinrudeRichard, If you are merely attempting to slide the cable by hand it will never work. Requires too much leverage.
To check out the cylinder see my above post from Sept 3, 2:15 PM. Again I am assuming your engine and mine are the same in this department and I believe they are. I can shoot you a digital picture of the area in question with the 'plastic nut' ect highlighted if you give me your email address. I just checked my engine with the motor down, and I can still access this black plastic nut at the bottom of the same cable you have disconnected from the top. However, if your engine is in the down position I don't see how you possibly could have accessed the top of the cable to remove it.
Do you have a manual for this engine? Its possible we are at odds because of the assumption our engines are similar. Mine is a 1995 48 Spl with 'gas assisted' tilt. Let me know if you would like a quick digital picture of my engine in this area. That might clear things up. Or you could send me one of yours. Vegabond9@hotmail.com Mark42, we are not actually removing the valve body, just accessing it where the cable attaches to it and tilting up on the valve as if the cable were pulling up on it from the tilt lever.
If the engine is half way up, and you move the lever to tilt it should drift down by its own weight. Maybe drift is too slow a word, how about 'fall slowly'. The gas assisted part comes into play here and it doesn't allow the engine to actually 'fall'.
Hence, the word drift with attitude. When lifting the motor, there will be resistance. If you pull very hard, you will 'outrun' the gas assist so to speak and fight against it.
However, if the cable is not adjusted properly, it will be overly difficult to raise. Done that for way too long!
You can get it up, but what a battle. If you put your lever in Tilt and adjust your engine, I am assuming you put the lever back to the Lock position afterwards. If you Lock it, it should not continue to drift down. If you fail to Lock it, it should drift down rather quickly if adjusted properly. Hope this helps.
1995 Evinrude 48 HP E48ESLEO SPL This 48 horsepower Evinrude outboard, manufactured in 1995, is a saltwater model. The engine weight is recorded at 185 lbs. This is a 2 cylinder model. The displacement for the pistons is 44.9. The bore for this outboard is 3.18 inches and the stroke is 2.82 inches. This engine has power steering and a electric-type starter. RPM Information: 5000 Your engine's RPM range is important in choosing the right propeller for a given application.
For example, if you look at your tachometer at top speed and it is not within the engine's RPM range then that is generally not good. You want your RPM's to be within the proper range while at wide open throttle (WOT). Be sure to do your testing under your normal boating conditions and with a good propeller (not bent, cracked, or excessively chipped). Information on this page is provided to you as a free service of iboats.com. Because this information has come from many sources we can not guarantee its accuracy. Even if this information is the same as the original factory specs, boats are sometimes modified.
Thus, for safety and other reasons, it is a good idea to verify information here to make sure it matches up with your boat. The iboats are another excellent source of information. The iboats can likely help you find a lot of outboard information as it is arranged by subject.
Manual For 50 Hp Mercury
Engine Manual: Information on this page has come from multiple third parties and can not be guaranteed to be accurate.